How to Install Handmade Tile
This is a basic guide to install your own tiles.
Tools/Supplies Needed

- Sponge
- Rubber gloves
- Notched Trowel
- Toothbrush
- Large bristle brush
- Paper towels
- Apron
- Terry cloth or old rags
- Rubber float for bigger projects
- 2 bowls or buckets
- Clean water
- Masking tape

Adhesive and Grout to use with Handmade Tile
Recommended Brands: TEC Superflex,
Mapie, C-Cure, Custom Building Products
Before You Begin
- Verify your order is complete and you have all supplies necessary.
- Lay out the project to see if the measurements are correct
and check where possible cuts may lie. This also allows you
to see the amount of variation in the tiles. They can be arranged
to enhance this inherent quality.
- Cutting tiles - Wet saws are the best to cut straight lines
on handmade tile.
Tile Surfaces
Concrete is the best surface to adhere tile to and comes in
three forms for tile installations:
- Poured Concrete with no sealers added to surface
- Hardibacker ceramic tile backer board comes
in several different thicknesses. Score and cut like sheetrock
or cut with masonry saw blade.
- Unpainted Sheetrock or Dense Shield is the
next best surface with which to adhere tile.
Surface Preparation for Handmade Tiles
The work surface must be structurally sound, dry, and free from
oil, grease, dust, loose or peeling paint, concrete sealers or
curing compounds. Clean all surfaces with a dry towel. Sand painted
surfaces. All wood should be sealed with a polyurethane. Begin
when fully dry.
Mortar and Adhesives for Handmade Tiles
Clay Squared recommends using a concrete based mortar adhesive.
- Mix adhesive into a creamy peanut butter consistency and
allow to stand for 10 minutes. Do not make up more than
you can set in a 20 to 30 minute period.
- Remix and apply or follow manufacturer's directions.
- With gloves on, spread mortar over surface with a notched
trowel. To guarantee full coverage with our tile, we
recommend applying adhesive to the back of the tile as well
as the surface it is adhered to.
- Allow tiles to sit for at least 24 to 48 hours if possible
before grouting the surface.
Silicone or PL 200 may be used to adhere tiles for smaller projects,
and silicone specifically for glass tiles as it dries clear.
If you plan to adhere tile to wood, we recommend PL 200. Both
come in caulking tube dispensers.
Notched trowels are used to spread and "comb" adhesives onto the underlayment. Two sides of the trowel are notched with either "V" or "square-shaped" notches.
Use a square-notched trowel for setting thinsets on horizontal surfaces. Use v-notched trowels for setting mastics on vertical surfaces.
Trowels also come in different notch depths. Use one that's two-thirds the thickness of the tile you're setting.
If you don't want to invest a lot in trowels, you can get less expensive plastic ones at your tile supply store.
TIP: Another helpful tool for scooping out adhesives and grout, and for spreading adhesives in narrow places is the margin trowel.

Many handmade tiles are not completely flat. That's when you need to "back butter" the tiles individually. Spread the adhesive on the back of the tile with a notched trowel. If the tile is too small you can also use a margin trowel to spread the adhesive and scratch in notches with the edge of the trowel. Set the tile giving it a little twist to insure good contact with the underlayment.
Clean Up
Always clean your hands, tools, and bucket in a separate bucket
with clean water. Mortar dumped in the sink will ruin the
drain.
Grout for Handmade Tiles
Grout is the filler between the tile joints. It is a concrete
material but not an adhesive.
Choosing Grout
There are three types of grout: Sanded, Unsanded, and Epoxy
- Sanded grout - used for joints larger than
3/16" and used
in most handmade tile installations.
- Unsanded grout - used for joints smaller
than 3/16" and used
mostly with commercial tiles.
- Epoxy grout is new to the grout world.
Consult a distributor of tile materials for its best uses.
Using Grout
Follow manufacturer's directions. If grouting dimensional or
matte tiles, use masking tape to protect the tile surface. Taping
speeds the clean up process and prevents grout from adhering
to unglazed areas. Remove tape once grout has been cleaned.
- Use clean cool water and mix grout to a creamy peanut butter
mixture.
- Holding a rubber grout float or using gloved hands, force
grout diagonally into joints ensuring joints are completely
filled.
- Clean right away with a dry terry cloth or paper towels.
Do not add more water, it can weaken the grout.
- Once cleaned, let sit for 48 to 72 hours to cure.
Choosing a grout color

This example of grout choices is on Clay Squared Autumn Sky. There are significant differences when choosing a grout color. White grouts with dark colors will create a griding effect. Gray grout is the old standby; you usually can't go wrong. Black grout can be beautiful, but it will fill any crackles in the glaze and will show up changing the look of un grouted tile, so do a test before settling on black grout.
Sealer for Tiles
Sealers are relatively new to tiling. An additional sealer is
optional since the mortar and grout already contain silicone
additives that act as sealers.
Installing Switch Ceramic Plates
Your old screws will most likely work. Use care not to tighten
too hard because SWITCHPLATES DO NOT BEND!
Installing Ceramic House Numbers
Pre-drill holes into the surface the numbers are to be adhered.
Stucco requires a masonry bit to drill the holes. Manually screw
the numbers into the intended surface. Do
not use power tools! House numbers may also be installed much the same as a tile (see
above).
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